L-Ascorbic Acid

Also known as: vitamin c

What is L-Ascorbic Acid?

L-ascorbic acid is the true vitamin C purist—the only form of vitamin C that can be properly called "vitamin C" and the most researched for skin benefits despite its notoriously unstable nature. This white crystalline powder neutralizes free radicals, inhibits melanin production, and stimulates collagen synthesis when formulated at the proper pH (below 3.5). Think of it as liquid sunshine in a bottle—brightening, protecting, and rebuilding skin's foundation all at once. It's the skincare equivalent of a high-performance sports car—delivering unparalleled results but requiring proper maintenance and handling to perform at its best. For those serious about antioxidant protection, pigmentation correction, and collagen support who are willing to navigate its instability challenges, pure L-ascorbic acid offers the most direct and researched form of vitamin C, ideally paired with vitamin E and ferulic acid to enhance stability and effectiveness.

Perfect For

Oily: Neutral effect on oily skin
Dry: Neutral effect on dry skin
Sensitive: Neutral effect on sensitive skin
Combination: Depends on specific formulation and application technique
Mature: Neutral effect on mature skin

Ingredient Interactions

Works well with: vitamin e, ferulic acid, hyaluronic acid, peptides

Avoid combining with: niacinamide, retinol, retinoid, copper peptides, benzoyl peroxide

Notes: Combination with vitamin E and ferulic acid enhances stability and efficacy; avoid combining with ingredients that alter its pH

References

Strength: Strong - Multiple clinical trials

Key Studies:
• Fitzpatrick R, et al. Dermatologic Surgery (2002): 3-month study showing improvement in photoaged skin
• Humbert P, et al. Experimental Dermatology (2003): Demonstrated increased collagen synthesis
• Pinnell S, et al. Dermatologic Surgery (2001): Study on stabilization and efficacy

Mechanisms:
• Potent antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals
• Required cofactor for collagen synthesis
• Inhibits tyrosinase enzyme activity
• Reduces inflammatory response in skin